How To Build A Hydroponic System

Have you wanted to create a worm farm at home, but was postponed because of the high cost of purchasing one of the clean label "designer" multi-level "Vermicomposting" kits, sponsored by nurseries and mail order companies? Well, let's cut the crap! - Its really NO SECRET! "You can make your own DIY kit for three bin just a few dollars and your worms will be as happy as pigs in the metal, no wolf in sight. Moreover, You need not be an expert hands to achieve this!

• Hardware stores, supermarkets and convenience stores sell camping difficult, the purpose general black (opaque) plastic containers at a very reasonable price. These are usually tapered so that they can be nested for easy stacking on shelves the retailer and come with the add an "adjustment" cap EC. For your worm farm, three of these containers have tapered (but only a lid). For a simple worm farm of origin would advise going for 12 gallons (45 liters) containers. Usually be about 15 inches deep (400mm). You can go smaller if desired.
• In the storage container in the first place, drill a 3 / 8 inch (15mm hole), placed centrally positioned on the side of the box, just above the base. Insert a ½ inch (12mm), cheap plastic barrel or irrigation tap (with washers) in its hole and tighten the lock nuts fast - sure to get a good seal - proof container filled with tap water. This container should be the lowest on the stack and retain high nutritional value "worm tea" leachate, which will begin dripping down from above the composting container. Worm tea is a valuable organic fertilizer liquid, which can be diluted and used directly in their vegetables.

The two upper shelves hold the worms actually. They should be identical and are prepared as follows: --

• Drill holes in the pattern of  ¼ inch (6 mm) throughout the base of each container to allow drainage and drainage and upward migration of compost worms, these holes must be regularly spaced about two inches (50mm) centers in any direction.
• For ventilation, drill two rows of ¼ of inch (6 mm) holes in two inches (50mm) centers, in a continuous band around each of the containers. This band of holes would be about four inches (100mm) below the upper edge of the box.
• It is essential to drill holes in the lid is closed tightly over the top tray. as you should get enough air from the sides.
• First, create the lowest (the sink) Bin bricks or blocks, leaving enough room to tap the liquid beneath it. Choose a shady spot for the operation of the worm (in a shed or garage, if you are subject to frost).
• Bins second and third are "nested" on the other and dropped into the drain tray. To maintain a working space for worms, and accumulation of compound you need a bit of spacers or packers height about six to eight inches between the two upper shelves and some small packages of about four inches in the less (housing) bin. Use wood blocks or food jars sealing packers. Packers also keep the container conical worm of jamming together.
• To avoid "mistakes unpleasant tightening in the medium containers must be closed (putty), the small space between them with strips of shade cloth or mosquito netting.

Now you are ready to enter production. Space prevents us from giving very detailed notes here to see the fine points of operating system, such as choice and feeding your worms, eradication of pests and keep the worm farm etc. - you Or visit our web site for this information. However, just be sure to cover the following points: --

• Configure your worms in the upper tray with a good (moisture) fibrous beds (or even shredded newspapers), and after a few days ready to start entering into your notebook in the kitchen. Cover foods with more material from the beds to deter pests and keep the lid closed.
• Make sure the worm farm never allowed to dry, the water sprinkled on the bedding regularly, if not already enough moisture from the food scraps.
• When the upper tray has been fully productive for a while, the worms multiply and compost will begin to accrue from the vermicompost. When the amount of compost is significant, let to put food in this box and exchange on the top two trays bin putting 2 in the top of the stack, with bin # 1 now in the middle. Creation This new top tray with clean linen, a small amount of old molding and immediately start feeding the kitchen scraps in it. Worms, Naturally, the upward migration toward the new food source, leaving the bottom bin with only a few stragglers and ready to harvest your compost in approximately three weeks after the exchange.
• All you need do is keep repeating the process of alternation of the two containers on a regular basis, taking compost, where it accumulates, and drawing out the worm tea occasionally. Use both products of her garden and grow delicious vegetables totally organic and roses impressive. Sit back and enjoy the fruits of their labor - the worms are doing most of the work anyway!

For a diagram detailed in this simple worm farm, as described, and some photos, visit our website at http://www.working-worms.com/

Happy worming!

Ant Coe has a degree from the University of Cape Town, South Africa and is passionate about promoting the use of cheap solutions, for the various problems facing poor communities in Africa. DIY worm farming or vermiculture is one such proposal. Few poor African communities can afford the high cost of commercial fertilizer and worm compost is an excellent source of free organic enrichment for school and village gardens. Visit his website at http://www.working-worms.com/ for further information.

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